Doing the Charleston!
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Ben
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
I've just realised that changing from inwards to outwards is a matter of switching the props then switching the cables in each side of the Morse. I'd never thought about that.
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CharlesL
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Er... whilst if the shafts are both turning in the same direction the props will be identical, but if in opposite directions surely you also need to buy an additional prop, opposite hand?
Charles
Charles
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Ben
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
I was assuming that PB will buy a pair of handed props.
Then the choice of inwards or outwards is easy.
I've never had the luxury of a boat with handed props. Yet.
Then the choice of inwards or outwards is easy.
I've never had the luxury of a boat with handed props. Yet.
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PeterCharleston
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Yep handed props are the plan, although some quotes are in and a smidge eye watering. The original props will be up for sale once checked and true. 2 x ZF63A 2.0:1 , 500 hours in a 36ft Hardy from new boxes, are going to Lancing Marine for service and checking, but they will be up for sale, as a certain Fairey Aficionado has found me a ZF220A, 1.5:1 which i am extremely grateful and very excited about, just need to find its partner. Please shout if you find one ???
Props for max speed? 250 ish HP mated to a 1.5:1 gearbox what do we think is possible ?
One Perkins M265Ti engine due for collection in a week or two and then we can put the two together and start figuring out the engine beds. Shafts are back from being checked and trued up. P brackets are looking gorgeous with new bearings. Stern tubes are still looking a tad battered from their removal saga (don't do it!!) but will hopefully be back to an AVB standard shortly. Bennet Trim tabs seem the way to go ? any suggestions/experiences please ?
Stop press:- Precision Units , Poole, have come up trumps, new windscreen is now in the barn and ready for its frame to be made , that adventure is a whole story, but drawn a blank on the frame manufacture front at mo. Fuel tanks are now absolutely spotless and ready to go back in. Windows have been fitted temp for several weeks but still want to straighten out when i release the fixings, but they have not cracked, so thank you Graham @ Seaclear, phew !
Here's a question, those little rings to tie the fender are so painful if trodden on, anyone tried something different ?
Ok i take the point of not sending the bilge outlets down the exhaust, i also take the point about seeing the discharge of raw cooling water, BUT we have spent SO much time getting that white hull finish i don't want any stains, how about a little line of outlets at the stern ? any other ideas ?
Props for max speed? 250 ish HP mated to a 1.5:1 gearbox what do we think is possible ?
One Perkins M265Ti engine due for collection in a week or two and then we can put the two together and start figuring out the engine beds. Shafts are back from being checked and trued up. P brackets are looking gorgeous with new bearings. Stern tubes are still looking a tad battered from their removal saga (don't do it!!) but will hopefully be back to an AVB standard shortly. Bennet Trim tabs seem the way to go ? any suggestions/experiences please ?
Stop press:- Precision Units , Poole, have come up trumps, new windscreen is now in the barn and ready for its frame to be made , that adventure is a whole story, but drawn a blank on the frame manufacture front at mo. Fuel tanks are now absolutely spotless and ready to go back in. Windows have been fitted temp for several weeks but still want to straighten out when i release the fixings, but they have not cracked, so thank you Graham @ Seaclear, phew !
Here's a question, those little rings to tie the fender are so painful if trodden on, anyone tried something different ?
Ok i take the point of not sending the bilge outlets down the exhaust, i also take the point about seeing the discharge of raw cooling water, BUT we have spent SO much time getting that white hull finish i don't want any stains, how about a little line of outlets at the stern ? any other ideas ?
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tjsb
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Peter,
Minimising the number of outlets is good, up to a point. I link bilge pump outlets via non return valves into an outlet. To avoid marks, then suggest using a short length of outlet pipe to get the fumes/water away from the transom. Clearly dark blue paint masks the worst offences. Worth ensuring that apart from exhausts, any outlet should be as high above the waterline as possible for the obvious reasons. Shout if you need pictures of how I am replacing my original exhaust outlets with different size outlets in better locations or want to discuss the factors.
Toby
Minimising the number of outlets is good, up to a point. I link bilge pump outlets via non return valves into an outlet. To avoid marks, then suggest using a short length of outlet pipe to get the fumes/water away from the transom. Clearly dark blue paint masks the worst offences. Worth ensuring that apart from exhausts, any outlet should be as high above the waterline as possible for the obvious reasons. Shout if you need pictures of how I am replacing my original exhaust outlets with different size outlets in better locations or want to discuss the factors.
Toby
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Firefly
- Lieutenant
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Hi Toby
I'd like to see your new exhaust outlet arrangement.
Regards David
I'd like to see your new exhaust outlet arrangement.
Regards David
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EWV
- Bosun
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Me too, it's a job that I'll tackle this year.
Peter, as I said in another post on trim tabs recently, I don't think you can go wrong with a Bennett system.
Peter, as I said in another post on trim tabs recently, I don't think you can go wrong with a Bennett system.
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tjsb
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Peter,
email sent. When we can get out of lockdown then you will be able to see what I am doing - the boat is ashore at Northshore in Itchenor.
Toby
email sent. When we can get out of lockdown then you will be able to see what I am doing - the boat is ashore at Northshore in Itchenor.
Toby
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PeterCharleston
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Superb Toby, in a heartbeat, just shout.
Have you had a chance to look/nose around at Northshores new "Fairey" ?
Did i spot a Fairey at Emsworth Yacht Harbour recently?
Peter
Have you had a chance to look/nose around at Northshores new "Fairey" ?
Did i spot a Fairey at Emsworth Yacht Harbour recently?
Peter
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tjsb
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Dear EWV,
if you give me an email address, I can send you the same details I sent Peter. Still work in progress due to lockdown but we are almost on assembly now.
Best
Toby
if you give me an email address, I can send you the same details I sent Peter. Still work in progress due to lockdown but we are almost on assembly now.
Best
Toby
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EWV
- Bosun
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Thanks Toby, email address sent
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tjsb
- Lieutenant
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Dear EMV,
Not seen. If nec you could let me know an email address via the private members' forum
Toby
Not seen. If nec you could let me know an email address via the private members' forum
Toby
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tjsb
- Lieutenant
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Edward,
Emails sent, 6 Mar 20 and yesterday (in case they are not getting through). Happy to talk through if it helps.
Best
Toby
Emails sent, 6 Mar 20 and yesterday (in case they are not getting through). Happy to talk through if it helps.
Best
Toby
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EWV
- Bosun
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
Got them, thanks Toby. I'll reply by email.
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Ben
- Admiral
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Re: Doing the Charleston!
The ZF220A attachment that I emailed you came from http://www.tadiesels.com/transmissions/ ... F-220A.htm
(there is also one for the ZF63A http://www.tadiesels.com/img/zf/docs/ZF_63_A.pdf )
See the H1 dimension of 116mm looks like a lot to me, if it fouled the bottom of the hull, you could always move the engine fwd, but only to the point you hit the front of the engine box. I think its generally quite tight at the front in a Swordsman 33.
The same H1 dimension on the ZF63A is 82mm, that 34mm difference might be quite a lot just there.
I think what you need to do is make up a wood/polystyrene/foam model of engine and box and get it in the boat, see how it looks, otherwise you might end up stuck like a ship in Suez.
The 10degree down angle is really nice, your shafts are about 15 degrees I think, which would put your engines about 5 degrees up at the front, that's really nice.
I can think of a Huntsman with down angle boxes, but not a Swordsman.
There is a set of brackets that bolt to the hogs, you should have 8, I would guess they were bolted in with 1/2" UNF bolts because that's what the Huntsman have. A lot of big holes in the hogs. I would be inclined to try and keep those holes where they are and modify the metal work to suit.
I'm not an expert, I wonder if Mike Wills knows of down angle boxes in a Swrodsman.
I reckon I would be building a mock up.
(there is also one for the ZF63A http://www.tadiesels.com/img/zf/docs/ZF_63_A.pdf )
See the H1 dimension of 116mm looks like a lot to me, if it fouled the bottom of the hull, you could always move the engine fwd, but only to the point you hit the front of the engine box. I think its generally quite tight at the front in a Swordsman 33.
The same H1 dimension on the ZF63A is 82mm, that 34mm difference might be quite a lot just there.
I think what you need to do is make up a wood/polystyrene/foam model of engine and box and get it in the boat, see how it looks, otherwise you might end up stuck like a ship in Suez.
The 10degree down angle is really nice, your shafts are about 15 degrees I think, which would put your engines about 5 degrees up at the front, that's really nice.
I can think of a Huntsman with down angle boxes, but not a Swordsman.
There is a set of brackets that bolt to the hogs, you should have 8, I would guess they were bolted in with 1/2" UNF bolts because that's what the Huntsman have. A lot of big holes in the hogs. I would be inclined to try and keep those holes where they are and modify the metal work to suit.
I'm not an expert, I wonder if Mike Wills knows of down angle boxes in a Swrodsman.
I reckon I would be building a mock up.