H 31, Fortissimo is going well and based at Port Hamble.Regretably unable to make events this year due to family commitments.
Advice sought ,please, as to identity of any competent people in Hamble area to re caulk decks and deal with a few surface cracks in the teak.Also good shipwright ( if not same person/people) to do various jobs on the boat to a high standard and who do not conastantly promise to arrive but never do ( still glad I bought a wooden boat, I save a fortune if shipwrights do not turn up but boat getting tatty).
On another matter I have experienced much bilgr paint bubbling when using "Bilgex" to the recommended dilution.Any suggestions for a useful alternative ( except drinking it)?
Finally , for some strange reason I do not understand the port engine is "low compression" , why? Also ,apart from the turbo working to a higher pressure , why does it drink approx 25% more diesel(is the answer in the question?)Engines are 212 hp Sabres.
Many thanks for any advice.
Teak decks etc
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Douglas E
- Bosun
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 6:12 pm
- Location: United Kingdom
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Scott Pett
- Vice Admiral
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 9:49 am
- Location: UK South Coast
- Contact:
Douglas,
I don't know of any itinerant shipwrights but you could try Peter Foulkes at the Chandlery Barge at Burseldon.
However, recaulking is not a totally impossible DIY task - it's no worse a job than sealing round the bathroom sink.
The shakes in the deck planks can be filled with a mixture of epoxy resin and teak sawdust. I did this on my Huntress earlier in the year and it looked OK. The resin finishes up alot darker than the wood, but does not totally out of place and it stops the water working into the sub-deck.
I appear to have alot of teak sawdust left over from my repairs, I'm not a million miles from the Hamble and my email addres can be found under my Forum profile.
I don't have any experience with Bilgex. I had the wife use Jizer last time to get the top layer of crud out of the bilge.
There are some serious drinkers in the club who may have more experience with Bilgex
As to engines - it may be that the thirsty engine is over-fuelling, it's probably worth having the fuel pumps recalibrated (Mike Wills, see reference page). If the port engine is definitely dropping on compression is could be any number of things from stuck piston rings to worn bores. The boost pressure will rise with the amount of fuel pumped into the engine, so it might be trying to balance the power output. Are the throttles in the same position for the same revs? or do you have to push the left hand lever further forward to synchronize the engines?
Again, Mike Wills is the Engine Maestro you need.
Cheers,
Scott
H31 No. 5
I don't know of any itinerant shipwrights but you could try Peter Foulkes at the Chandlery Barge at Burseldon.
However, recaulking is not a totally impossible DIY task - it's no worse a job than sealing round the bathroom sink.
The shakes in the deck planks can be filled with a mixture of epoxy resin and teak sawdust. I did this on my Huntress earlier in the year and it looked OK. The resin finishes up alot darker than the wood, but does not totally out of place and it stops the water working into the sub-deck.
I appear to have alot of teak sawdust left over from my repairs, I'm not a million miles from the Hamble and my email addres can be found under my Forum profile.
I don't have any experience with Bilgex. I had the wife use Jizer last time to get the top layer of crud out of the bilge.
There are some serious drinkers in the club who may have more experience with Bilgex
As to engines - it may be that the thirsty engine is over-fuelling, it's probably worth having the fuel pumps recalibrated (Mike Wills, see reference page). If the port engine is definitely dropping on compression is could be any number of things from stuck piston rings to worn bores. The boost pressure will rise with the amount of fuel pumped into the engine, so it might be trying to balance the power output. Are the throttles in the same position for the same revs? or do you have to push the left hand lever further forward to synchronize the engines?
Again, Mike Wills is the Engine Maestro you need.
Cheers,
Scott
H31 No. 5
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tonyhh
- First Sea Lord
- Posts: 769
- Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 12:04 am
- Location:
Douglas,
I agree with Scott, both Peter and Mike have had years of experience and are excellent at their work. Both are Club members.
Their numbers can be found on the Reference page under Shipwrights and Engineers.
Mike is often found around the Hamble even though based in Poole - see John Boggis' comments re his Cutlass bearings in the message below - not much he doesn't know about engines/electrics etc. Same goes for Peter and wood! As a club I think we are very lucky to have them on board
All the best
Tony
I agree with Scott, both Peter and Mike have had years of experience and are excellent at their work. Both are Club members.
Their numbers can be found on the Reference page under Shipwrights and Engineers.
Mike is often found around the Hamble even though based in Poole - see John Boggis' comments re his Cutlass bearings in the message below - not much he doesn't know about engines/electrics etc. Same goes for Peter and wood! As a club I think we are very lucky to have them on board
All the best
Tony
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Mark lewis
- Able Seaman
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2004 12:58 am
- Location: United Kingdom
Re Teak Decking...
Talking to a custodian of the HMS Victory: apparently they use Comfort fabric conditioner to clean their decks as the boffins worked out that it does very little harm to the wood and doesn't degrade it.
Fairly dilute solution seems to do the trick. I tend to use Fuchs Citricent in the bilges to remove oil etc. It doesn't contain many of the degreasers and petroleum based solvents in some of the products around. Also it gets rid of the diesel smell (works on clothes too!).
Bubbling in paintwork usually indicates porosity in the surface of the paint, or in extreme cases moisture from within.
Mark Lewis (former surveyor)
Talking to a custodian of the HMS Victory: apparently they use Comfort fabric conditioner to clean their decks as the boffins worked out that it does very little harm to the wood and doesn't degrade it.
Fairly dilute solution seems to do the trick. I tend to use Fuchs Citricent in the bilges to remove oil etc. It doesn't contain many of the degreasers and petroleum based solvents in some of the products around. Also it gets rid of the diesel smell (works on clothes too!).
Bubbling in paintwork usually indicates porosity in the surface of the paint, or in extreme cases moisture from within.
Mark Lewis (former surveyor)