A Fairey Spearfish owner requires a replacement starboard side "P"bracket and is happy to purchase one to avoid having to have one made up..
Is there anybody that can help?
If you reply I will put you in contact.
Paul
Fairy Spearfish P-Bracket
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Midnight Blue
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tjsb
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Dear all,
The original p brackets on the spearfish were daggers that went through the hull and then onto a web at right angles which was glassed into the bulkhead. I replaced mine about 20 years ago with bolted p brackets which in my opinion are far superior ( can give reasons if nec). My spearfish is ashore so if someone wants to see it then please get in touch. Hamble propellers may be able to get them cast
and machined or know someone who can. Changing a dagger P bracket like for like will involve cutting out the old one and require quite a lot of making good
Toby
The original p brackets on the spearfish were daggers that went through the hull and then onto a web at right angles which was glassed into the bulkhead. I replaced mine about 20 years ago with bolted p brackets which in my opinion are far superior ( can give reasons if nec). My spearfish is ashore so if someone wants to see it then please get in touch. Hamble propellers may be able to get them cast
and machined or know someone who can. Changing a dagger P bracket like for like will involve cutting out the old one and require quite a lot of making good
Toby
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Midnight Blue
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Re: Fairy Spearfish P-Bracket
Ben Curtis expressed a view on this topic when I spoke to him. I also suggested P-brackets would be a welcome addition to his book “Fixing my Fairey”…
Assuming the plan is to remove a glassed in bracket to a bolt on one, there would need to be some glasswork inside, but fairly minor easy to do stuff.
But Ben thinks if the boat currently has a glassed in P-bracket, someone like Vetus would have an off the shelf one that could be glassed in?
Failing that, the preference would be a bolt on Huntsman one.
If the H28/31 and Spearfish and Fantome P-bracket is all the same design, Hamble Props have a casting pattern, and as they are handed, presumably a port and starboard version.
Bens suggestion was to ask Hamble Props to cast a new bolt on Huntsman P-bracket. Maybe they would lend the casting pattern to allow a check of the fit. Although the pattern will take account of shrinkage when the molten metal cools.
Paul
Assuming the plan is to remove a glassed in bracket to a bolt on one, there would need to be some glasswork inside, but fairly minor easy to do stuff.
But Ben thinks if the boat currently has a glassed in P-bracket, someone like Vetus would have an off the shelf one that could be glassed in?
Failing that, the preference would be a bolt on Huntsman one.
If the H28/31 and Spearfish and Fantome P-bracket is all the same design, Hamble Props have a casting pattern, and as they are handed, presumably a port and starboard version.
Bens suggestion was to ask Hamble Props to cast a new bolt on Huntsman P-bracket. Maybe they would lend the casting pattern to allow a check of the fit. Although the pattern will take account of shrinkage when the molten metal cools.
Paul
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Ben
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Re: Fairy Spearfish P-Bracket
I can confirm that Hamble Propellers have very recently supplied a pair of P brackets and a rudder for a Huntsman 28, very good news that these are so easily available.
Hamble Props are THE people to go to for Fairey parts, they have been doing it a long time. I've even had the occasional mug of tea (no biscuits).
Hamble Props are THE people to go to for Fairey parts, they have been doing it a long time. I've even had the occasional mug of tea (no biscuits).
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tjsb
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Re: Fairy Spearfish P-Bracket
Further to my last on P bracket replacement, here's how I did it.
Before cutting out the p bracket, I set up a jig for the shaft so it couldn't move. This allows accurate siting of the new p bracket. After checking with the yard they wouldn't need to move the boat, I cut the bracket off. Next day I arrived at the boat to find the jig smashed and no other damage. I think the yard said they had to move it after all - a matter of about a micron... I have never been back to that yard since. Next job was to cut out the internal bulkhead that the old bracket was glassed to and beef up the hull laminates. Next was preparing for installation of the new bracket. Check the engines and P brackets and shafts are correctly aligned before cutting and bear in mind there will be a tiny amount of sag in the shaft when the boat is out of the water. Of course, the new p bracket needs to be absolutely aligned in pitch, yaw and roll. Of course, if the shaft is jigged, then you are close to solving pitch and yaw and just have to get the roll right. The new P bracket can be slid up the shaft so it can be sited correctly fore and aft. The hull needed to be flattened where the old p bracket exited as there was a moulded fairing proud of the hull. This sanding became very fine when getting the best fit possible, ensuring everything is square. It is clearly critical to match all angles so when bolted up, the bracket doesn't become misaligned. I used a dial gauge on the shaft and checked alignment visually for yaw on the shaft relative to the cutlass bearing to check the shaft was straight and true.
Only when absolutely sure everything was correct () did I drill the holes. I then glassed in a new bulkhead fore and aft of where the P bracket goes through the hull. The p bracket was bolted up, re-checked for alignment and then bolted up again with a dose of Solent Sealants' grey non setting mastic which has kept it dry for over 20 years. I then re-checked alignment again. Props back on and don't forget to ensure a first class connection to the sacrificial anode.
Next job was retire to the bar for a beer.
Before cutting out the p bracket, I set up a jig for the shaft so it couldn't move. This allows accurate siting of the new p bracket. After checking with the yard they wouldn't need to move the boat, I cut the bracket off. Next day I arrived at the boat to find the jig smashed and no other damage. I think the yard said they had to move it after all - a matter of about a micron... I have never been back to that yard since. Next job was to cut out the internal bulkhead that the old bracket was glassed to and beef up the hull laminates. Next was preparing for installation of the new bracket. Check the engines and P brackets and shafts are correctly aligned before cutting and bear in mind there will be a tiny amount of sag in the shaft when the boat is out of the water. Of course, the new p bracket needs to be absolutely aligned in pitch, yaw and roll. Of course, if the shaft is jigged, then you are close to solving pitch and yaw and just have to get the roll right. The new P bracket can be slid up the shaft so it can be sited correctly fore and aft. The hull needed to be flattened where the old p bracket exited as there was a moulded fairing proud of the hull. This sanding became very fine when getting the best fit possible, ensuring everything is square. It is clearly critical to match all angles so when bolted up, the bracket doesn't become misaligned. I used a dial gauge on the shaft and checked alignment visually for yaw on the shaft relative to the cutlass bearing to check the shaft was straight and true.
Only when absolutely sure everything was correct () did I drill the holes. I then glassed in a new bulkhead fore and aft of where the P bracket goes through the hull. The p bracket was bolted up, re-checked for alignment and then bolted up again with a dose of Solent Sealants' grey non setting mastic which has kept it dry for over 20 years. I then re-checked alignment again. Props back on and don't forget to ensure a first class connection to the sacrificial anode.
Next job was retire to the bar for a beer.